We acquired our first fistful of rupees at Kochi Airport, early in the morning, soon after our arrival - I was fascinated by the exotic bank notes - I smelt them, examined their delicate depiction of Gandhi, folded them between my fingers into a fat bundle -
We found ATMs all over Kerala - some were air conditioned capsules, pristine shrines for a benign digital deity - clever screens glowed, new notes spilled out into your hand - others were stifling cubicles, ankle deep in discarded receipts -
In Thakkad Junction, I bought some sparkling mineral water - after a while, I was given my change, peeled off a truncheon of rupees -
The worn five or ten rupee notes were oily to the touch, almost transparent, strange tokens quivering between my fingers -
The worn five or ten rupee notes were oily to the touch, almost transparent, strange tokens quivering between my fingers -
I looked into the cloudy eyes of the man who'd handed me my bottles of water, digging them out from the bottom of the fridge -
He'd waited for us to walk past, the English, staying with Dr Bagi -
You want them cold? -
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