The day after our sailing course finished, Anne and I went back to Rogoznica - we ordered a taxi from the Marina office - the interior of the blue Mercedes was air conditioned - we were driven swiftly over the scorched roads -
We'd first seen Rogoznica at the end of the night sail from Privic - contrary to our fears, the wind had been moderate, and we'd enjoyed our passage - we sailed upon a dark sea, past small islands and intricate peninsulas - there was a crescent moon low in the sky - the only sound was that of the water, slapping against the hull of the yacht -
We steered by compass bearings, looking out for lights marking rocks, or channels into harbours - Nathan spotted the lights far more quickly than the rest of us - he had superb night vision - we got to Rogoznica after midnight - the waterfront bars were still open -
We'd all had icy Ozujsko beer, served in chunky glasses - we met up with Captain Jack, with Grant and Andrew - Grant was a lawyer, and Andrew a psychiatrist - they came from Melbourne -
Next morning, there'd been no time to explore the narrow streets, to look at the austere church - we'd set sail by ten for Kremik -
But now we were able to wander past the high stone houses, climb the steps to the church, see silky cats enter hidden gardens - we spent hours sipping milky coffee in the Cafe Illyria - the waiter there recommended the Buddha Bar -
I felt at peace in this louche den, overlooking the sea - I sipped my Orangina, listening to jazz - net curtains were stirred by a warm salty breeze - later, we went swimming - we lay in the shade of pine trees - drowsy, dreamy, creatures -
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