Whale watching off Los Cristianos

Last year, to mark the occasion of Anne's birthday, we went whale watching off Los Cristianos - we chartered a yacht, and set out from the marina before mid morning - the town beach was still empty - there were no brown bodies stretched out upon the loungers - arid hills rose up beyond the elegant seafront - white yachts were motionless upon the water - the powerful engines of speedboats were silent - the sky was a flawless blue -

We were introduced by the marinero to our fellow passengers - a Japanese couple, with their sweet tempered daughter - they'd flown here from Sweden, and they were staying in Tenerife for just a week - the husband had been captain of an oil tanker, and was now based in Stockholm - I imagined him, standing on the bridge of his vast automated ship, sailing past desolate shores -

The marinero was a swaggering bravo - he'd been born an Israeli - he'd led a louche and wandering life - he was now married, with a child - he'd settled down -

The white sails of the yacht snapped taut in the warm wind - we left the shore behind - sunlight sparkled upon the gentle swell - the island became a hazy blur - I wondered what it would be like to swim naked in the turquoise sea -

Then - suddenly - we saw the whales - beautiful sleek creatures - their curved fins shone - their gleaming bodies were shapely and powerful - I could hear the hiss of air spurted out of their blow holes - we came up close to them - they moved with such power and grace - they sported together, pulsing with joy - then they were gone - I felt bereft -

I was horrified that such shining flesh might be rent with harpoons - I felt a deep shame -

We sailed on to anchor in a small rocky bay - we drank some iced cava - I thought about the whales - the marinero said such pods often gathered there, off Los Cristianos -